Animal Nation: dog training

Showing posts with label dog training. Show all posts

August 27, 2013

Raisa Stone: Which Dog Collar or Harness is Right For You?

I get a lot of questions about the effect and purpose of various types of gear for dogs. I'm also the type of person who'll walk up to strangers and say politely, "May I show you how to use that?"

And once in a while, "Um, you have your choke chain on backwards." It's always some big blustery dude, but I brave on anyway, for the poor dog's sake.

I started in "old school" Kennel Club Obedience classes with my Dad, our two Great Danes and Boston when I was seven.

I've shown and trained dogs of many descriptions and temperaments, and worked with countless rescue and shelter animals. I was privileged to learn from German trainer Otto Prockert, who worked almost exclusively telepathically and with "a quiet word," and also from Chuck Eisenmann, beloved trainer of The Littlest Hobo.

I routinely work with Animal Communication clients who also request assistance with training tips. My practice successfully helps animals who range from ultra-timid, to ones on death row due to aggression.

I've tried just about every type of collar. No matter which you use, the better part of training is first explaining and visualizing what you want your pet to do. It's important to figure out what motivates them, too. Some dogs love an energetic, playful tone, while others prefer you to be serious and focused.

You can't just fasten any type of collar or harness on them, yell, "Heel!" and expect them to understand. Training is an art and a science. This article is meant to briefly describe commonly used tools, and clear up confusion about these.

Here's a rundown:

Martingale: This is a flat collar with a built in safety chain. It tightens the collar when the dog pulls, but does not squeeze the neck.

Pros: No strain on neck, if dog doesn't pull. A great choice if your dog walks easily at your side, and you just want the assurance of a collar that will not easily slip over her head if she backs up. Strictly a safety collar.

Cons: The martingale is often misunderstood as a training tool, a sort of "half choke chain." Snapping it does nothing to correct a dog's behavior, teach her to heel, etc. I've seen too many people snapping the martingale, as if it's supposed to have a training effect. The noise just annoys the dog.

Choke chain: A short term training tool, for experienced hands. Used correctly, it gives a little "zip" to the large exterior neck muscle.

Pros: Used correctly, it can work. I prefer the very thin chain, which I test on my own skin.

Cons: Used incorrectly or long term, it literally chokes, bruises and can permanently damage the windpipe. For short term use only. Should never be left on dog, as she can strangle. Seen applied backwards too many darn times. If so, the chain never releases, and the poor dog is in a state of constant discomfort and confusion.

Prong collar: Digs blunted points into the neck. Usually used for particularly strong pullers who are resistant to the "zip" of the milder choke chain.

Pros: Gives the user a false sense of security that the dog has been trained.

Cons: It hurts! Can cause long term damage. Points can damage eyes. Many people pull it on and off over the head, rather than unfasten. Pulled hard enough, can damage the neck.

Instilling fear of pain is not good training. It creates fear and resentment, and as soon as an animal figures out they can either resist or get away from pain, they'll rebel against you.

Haltie: Fashioned after horse halters, to control the dog's head, rather than neck.

Pros: Gives better control than a flat collar. Doesn't usually slip off. Looks cool.

Cons: Dogs do not have thick, strong necks like horses. A sudden run to the end of the leash can snap the neck and cause both vertebral and muscular injury.

Top clip harness: Used by people who don't like putting a collar on the neck. Also for tiny dogs whose fragile necks can't withstand pulling.

Pros: Hard to squirm out of, so high safety factor in public. Comfy for small dogs, especially if padded. The only option for cats.

Cons: Dog harnesses were invented for pulling heavy loads, like carts and sleds. In modern society, that heavy load is usually YOU. Dogs like to brace against them. Not a training tool in the least. Not for medium to large dogs, anyway.

Many tiny dogs get along with a harness just fine. Harnesses are the only option I know of for leash training cats.

Fitting must be ultra careful, as potential for rub sores and even dislocating leg and shoulder joints exist. Harness must be routinely checked for sizing, as a small weight loss or gain (the dog's) can cause fit and comfort problems. The sling type with velcro can come undone.

Front clip harness: I'm a fan.These work by giving the dog's ribs a squeeze when he pulls. He immediately looks up at you for guidance.

Pros: Trains the worst pullers to stop this, in short order. I worked with a big, unruly adult Mastiff/Pit X at Animal Control who'd never been leash trained.

She liked constantly leaping up at her handler, which could be injurious. Everyone at the shelter was at wits' end. She was unadoptable as she was, but too sweet to give up on.

I explained what I wanted from her, and gave two small tugs on the front clip harness when she jumped and pulled. Lots of praise when she heeled and sat. By the end of a half hour, we were really in synch, and I didn't even need to tug.

I'm physically disabled with a spinal crush injury. With the front clip, I can work with even dogs like this, without exacerbating my chronic pain.

Cons: Prolonged use can damage the dog's spine and ribs, and create joint problems. This is a powerful tool. Not for people who use a leash like they're starting a lawn mower, when a simple gesture with two fingers will do.

As with any tool, you must have lessons to use the front clip. Judiciousness and delicacy with your hands are a must.

Millan's Illusion collar: Works like a choke chain, but not as "zippy."

Pros: It does work as described. It keeps the collar behind the dog's ears for the duration of the training session. You don't have to reach down and adjust it, like a chain.

Cons: May provide a minutely longer choke effect due to fabric instead of chain. The pro is also the con. If you want to take a leisurely walk before or after your training session, this collar doesn't relax lower on the neck.

Because it looks cool, is celebrity-related and costs significantly more than a chain choke, may stay in use much longer than is warranted for training. I'm a fan of removing a training tool AS SOON as no longer needed.

Flat/rolled leather or web: These collars are for puppies and well trained dogs who will heel, or walk obediently beside you.

Pros: No strain on neck, if the dog doesn't pull. If you're blessed to meet a trainer who can show you how to genuinely train your dog without the need for a choke chain or front clip---hang on and don't let go.

I like training dogs to heel in a flat or martingale collar by doing exercises around trees, lamp posts, mailboxes, etc. I make it a game, and make it seem spontaneous. I also heel them along a fence, and if they barge ahead, I just step my left leg in front and box them in. Then praise when they fall back to heel.

By the way, this is the only way to leash train cats. I use a harness, and would never dream of a corrective device. Cats don't forgive like dogs. Give cats plenty of time to roll around and ignore you during lessons.

Cons: Big strain on neck muscles and larynx (voice box), if dog does pull. Not a correction device. Can be wiggled out of. Of the incidents where dogs escape the leash, a flat collar is usually involved.

I've met people who think it's humane to use a flat collar and endlessly tug on it while the dog gags. They're usually the ones loudly proclaiming the inhumane nature of any other type of training tool. We've all seen these folks. They need lessons, badly. A briefly used choke chain or front clip harness is much more humane than months or years being "softly choked" with a collar.

Please don't leave collars on unsupervised. A dog can get hung up and choke. If you rely on the collar to i.d. your dog in case of loss, you're much better off to get her microchipped.

A word about leashes: Use a six-twelve foot leather, web or vinyl lead, folded in your hand. Cotton horse lead shanks also look cool on big dogs, are very sturdy, and feel nice in your hand. Avoid the nylon ones.

If you have one of those trendy leashes that come slithering out of a toilet paper dispenser (sorry, that's what it looks like to me), promise me you'll cut it up and recycle it. It's not only a deadly fashion faux pas, but more dogs have been hurt and killed from getting out of control with those things...

I always knew they belong in the bathroom

Shock collar: Just. Don't. Whether for "training" or as part of your electric fence system.There are so many things that can go wrong with an electronic device. These things can get stuck to deliver long term shock, or stuck on High.

Dogs have been permanently damaged, physically and psychologically. Sometimes, dogs don't heed the shock, so people tighten the collar. The dog ends up with holes burned in his neck. Electricity is too risky to use on a living creature's body!

In conclusion:

I strongly recommend enrolling in obedience classes. It's possible to train a dog to heel, sit, stay and come without ever using a collar at all, but you need instruction. It's fun, and will create a life long bond. You can choose from private sessions with a trainer, to community based programs.

If you're wondering how your pet is enjoying their current training, book a session with me to speak with them. I can help you with suggestions for the best methods, as well as find out what kind of activities your dog would enjoy, e.g. would they like agility or tracking? Herding or protection work? Or are they a natural babysitter?

Yours in the love of animals,

Raisa Stone

Expert Animal Communicator

www.reisastone.com

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To receive the complimentary Animal Soul Newsletter, with informative articles about animal care, communication and training, visit my website.

Copyright 2013 Raisa Stone. All rights reserved. If you wish to reprint material from this blog, contact Raisa Stone. Must be reprinted in entirety with all links and credit intact.

http://precioussouls.blogspot.ca/2011/12/keep-pets-safe-this-holiday-season-www.html
http://precioussouls.blogspot.ca/2011/11/preparing-for-animal-communication.html
http://precioussouls.blogspot.ca/2011/11/wild-geese.html

http://voices.yahoo.com/five-amazing-things-animal-communication-12269015.html?cat=31

August 26, 2013

Reisa Stone: The Ongoing Saga of the Lake

The Ongoing Saga

Trying to swim in the lake

.

BC summers are short, and you have to make the most of them. Two weeks of rain now. Ah, heck with it. During a momentary sunny break, I left for the beach.

A sudden downpour, just as I got in the water. Did you know that when it's pelting rain, the drops bounce off the surface and fly in your eyes?

I persisted for an hour. A little girl, fully clothed and fishing off the dock, yelled, "Is it warm?" I yelled back, "NO!" She laughed hysterically.

The rain lightened, but everyone else had fled the area. Suddenly, I was completely alone, a crazy lady swimming in a cold rainy lake. Even the triathlete-looking guy only lasted three minutes. Good thing I have a decent layer of fat.

The birds came out. I swam alongside a flock of Canadian geese, then a Mallard couple. A Kingfisher noisily flew from tree to tree, enjoying the crazy lady enjoying his territory.

He followed me, all along the shoreline. I swam east. He flew east. I turned around and swam west. He flew west. He told me to, "Keep it up!" and cackle-laughed. Two seagulls (we're 70 miles from the ocean), flew over me, calling.

Not what I expected, and magical.

Raisa Stone

PS I looked up the symbolism of the Kingfisher on several sources, and here is my favorite:
http://www.linsdomain.com/totems/pages/kingfisher.htm

Mythologically, they're beloved of sea nymphs. I suppose I was of mythic proportions today ;-D

To receive the complimentary Animal Soul Newsletter, with informative articles about animal care, communication and training, visit my website.

Copyright 2013 Raisa Stone. All rights reserved. If you wish to reprint material from this blog, contact Raisa Stone. Must be reprinted in entirety with all links and credit intact.

August 03, 2013

Reisa Stone: Minimize Your Companion's Anxiety

My August Animal Soul Newsletter

Chill Out!

Minimize Your Companion's Anxiety

If you've followed my work as an Animal Communicator, you'll know it's always about the animal's point of view. How do they see the world? Why are they acting that way? How can we work with their unique point of view to create harmony?

I had an eye opening experience recently. Before I broke my back, my role at horse and dog shows was mainly as a professional groom/handler or competitor. I took excellent care of my charges, and paid little attention to others' animals except to briefly watch their performances.

For the first time, I had a vendor table at a horse show. The kindly managers placed me in an optimal location---right inside the competitors' barn, where I had an opportunity to observe everyone. It was great meeting many of the competitors and their gorgeous equines, from a tiny, snorty Welsh pony stallion who was crushing on an equally enamored Sport Horse mare (let me get you a chair, fella), to leadline toddlers perched adorably on top of patient "baby sitter" horses.

Despite these vast differences, I saw the same issue over and over. Anxious equines. Horses with tummies so nervous, loose manure was everywhere. Equines calling to each other with a frantic note in their whinnies. Sudden explosions of energy: kicking, rearing, sidestepping, breaking gaits. Some competitors approached me with these problems. Anxiety was affecting ring performance. It was causing worries about leaving horses overnight.

This was another first for me: observing herd behavior, outside a herd. I'm well acquainted with herd hierarchy. How horses make friends and enemies, how they find places in their society. But at the show was a different kind of herd. One where each horse was exquisitely aware of the presence of all the others, yet had no way to make solid contact. They couldn't see each other over the solid stall walls, let alone touch noses, do the squealing, kicking, biting, mutual grooming, play and advance/retreats necessary to create herd security.

Our traditional wisdom of bringing horses to a venue the night before to "settle," can create more anxiety. They're not settling. They're freaking out over being away from home, and being thrust into new surroundings. In my showing years, I subscribed to this practice as well. It became clear I'd not done all I could at the time. What can we do to reduce anxiety?

I spoke with a Lead mare who was lathered with anxiety over being unable to manage what she felt were her new charges, and simultaneously worried about her herd at home. Imagine a high energy executive, thrust into a company and unable to see either her new or old staff. Another mare, more a "middle of the herd" personality, was shaking with vulnerability at suddenly being solo. Imagine a meek clerk being asked to give an impromptu public speech! Stallions sensed competitors from whom they couldn't defend territory; geldings feared being unable to defend themselves.

Their anxiety increased as they were taken into the ring, where yet another herd configuration met them. And yet again, no opportunity to truly connect. Some competitors were clearly at wit's end, pulling hard on lead ropes and reins. I'll repeat what I said in my last article about nervous symptoms in animals. Yanking on them in this state, drives the symptoms deeper into the nervous system. Petting and soothing may be of little use. They need their needs met. They need to feel secure. Neither correction nor affection can provide that.

To an animal, their herd is comfort, security, protection against predators. Being thrust into the show milieu can be something like you or I being given a few music lessons in the comfort of our homes, then being thrown naked onto the stage at Carnegie Hall---without first meeting your fellow musicians! Wouldn't you be anxious? Would someone patting your head or pulling on your arm, create a feeling of security? Not likely.

What does work? Besides giving each competitor the viewpoint of their individual equine, I counseled the same exercise: calm and ground yourself. Lead your horse slowly down the middle of each barn aisle, giving them an opportunity to see and have a word with every other animal. Tell them it's temporary; they're going home soon. Bring a buddy, and either rent a double stall or stall them across the aisle. If you can run home and get your horse's favorite hay, local water and treats, please do. Take your horse outside and let them see the ones in the warm up ring. Keep your energy and movements low and slow. Take your time with everything. If your horse lifts their head and stares at something you can't see, let them. Their senses are so much keener than ours.

It worked. I was thrilled to see, from my central location, horsewomen returning from the show ring with ribbons. They smiled at me and held their prizes high. Their horses' energy had dramatically changed. They were now calm, walking with their noses down instead of waving frantically in the air. Stall kicking and squealing lessened. These horses had had their anxiety dialed down, by their owners pro-actively showing their place in a temporary herd.

You can apply the same principles at competitions for other species. Cats are a bit different, as they're not typically pack animals. However, they're highly territorial. It's comforting for them to see their entire environment. Take a lesson from their love of perching in high places, and allow them to view the show venue. Explain to them that the enclosure they're in for the duration, is their exclusive territory and impermanent. Again, favorite treats and water from home. Make things as familiar as possible. Enter the "animal zone" I teach in my digital guided journeys, and have a conversation with your companion well before the actual show. Tell them what to expect.

By the way, this is an excellent way to train your animal to enjoy the vet's. Calm your energy. Drop into the waiting room "for no reason," and treat them. Tell the receptionist what you're doing, hang out for a few minutes, then leave. Next, take your pet to a place they love. Build positive associations around the anxiety-producing event. Create security.

What if you need a way to consistently calm and ground yourself? I offer a digital guided journey called Awaken the Gift of Animal Communication on my website. It contains a deep, Nature based meditation that engages the part of your brain which usually wanders during such exercises. If you do this meditation a few times, you'll be able to quickly put yourself in the grounded, relaxed zone which connects you with your companion.

All my best to you in the show ring, the vet's office and at home with your beloved companion.

Copyright 2013 Raisa Stone

Subscribe to the Animal Soul Newsletter on my website: www.reisastone.com
____________________

Copyright 2013 Raisa All rights reserved. May be reprinted only with permission, with attendant website links and credit. May not be edited or used in part.

~Raisa Stone
Expert Animal Communicator
www.reisastone.com
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July 28, 2013

Reisa Stone: Reasons for Animal Communication Sessions

A list of some reasons people apply for sessions with me.

They:

-Have spent countless hours and dollars trying to change their pet
-Have sought every possible solution, from expensive
equipment to total permissiveness, with little improvement
-Avoid certain situations
-Delay vet or groomer visits due to nightmarish behavior
-Lose work, social opportunities or sleep
-Lose precious and costly items to a pet's destructiveness
-Feel angry or disgusted at the pet's behavior, then feel guilty
-Get complaints from neighbours or even Animal Control
-Fear that when other people tell them to, "Just get rid of
it"---they may be right
-Have elaborate, time consuming systems to keep pets
from fighting, soiling or destroying property
-Blow classes or even entire expensive weekends at shows
-Experience confusion from conflicting opinions about
animal behavior
-Have a stack of expensive books and DVDs gathering dust.

The answer can be in learning your companion's point of view. Your pet has been waiting a lifetime to speak with you. If you've ever personally experienced the frustration other people "deciding for you" what is in your best interest----than you have an idea of what being a pet is like.

Your companion's behaviors are a message for you.They may be saying the same thing over and over, yet unable to make themselves understood. I can tell you what they're saying. If they need training, I can direct you to the TYPE of training from which they'll benefit.

Yours in the love of animals,
Raisa Stone
Expert Animal Communicator
www.reisastone.com

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May 30, 2012

Raisa Stone: In Praise of Small Dogs

Years ago, I didn't really like small dogs. Yep, I was a dog snob. And because I avoided them, I didn't listen to them.

When I was a veterinary assistant, I even landed in a clinic where the groomer despised small dogs. She had special mean names for them. We all laughed. Looking back, it wasn't funny.

Thankfully, I was well on the road to small dog appreciation before I went professional as an Animal Communicator. When you make the transition from "picking and choosing" your rescues to cooperating with big rescues, you work with who's in front of you.

To my surprise and delight (and some self-recrimination), I found a world of brilliant personalities.

Here's what I now know about small dogs:

-Small dogs have the same needs and desires as big dogs. They want to: run, play, socialize, scratch, eat yummy things, roll in stinky stuff, have sex, be part of a pack, sleep in your bed, protect you, have a job, know their place is the home, chew bones, and be with you.

-Though every small dog has the heart of their wolf ancestors, they feel extremely vulnerable due to their size. They can be afraid of: too many feet (on sidewalks and at festivals), people and other dogs approaching too quickly, being picked up without permission, children, loud noises, tall objects, cars, bicycles.

Part of what I do as an AC is actually "go inside" the animal's body and experience the world through their senses. It is quite frustrating and frightening to be a small creature in a world of large ones.

Small dog advice:

-Don't carry them around when they can walk. They find this embarrassing. It subjects them to razzing from larger dogs. Carrying them in your pink purse, is, well, like dressing kids in frou frou clothing. Pick them up only in unfamiliar or crowded situations. As well, lack of weight bearing exercise can cause osteoporosis;

-Housetrain them as rigorously as any large dog. Pee pads and ignoring "accidents" because they're small, is a subversion of their strong natural instincts to potty outdoors. It eats into their self esteem and makes them anxious. Is it acceptable to go in your pants when you only have to go "a little bit"? You'll also find yourself more welcome, socially. No matter how nice your friends are, believe me, they talk about the pee pads and newspapers behind your back;

-Adult large breeds make the best pets for children. Small dogs, especially puppies, are easily injured;

-Give your dog stature. Whenever you can, put them up on a (safe) chair or bench beside you. A small dog likes to view her surroundings. The other day I facilitated this for a mini Poodle at a powwow. She had been cowering under a chair, fine with the drums but terrified of dancing feet. I suggested her Mom put her bed on a chair. The little sprite stopped shaking, looked me warmly in the eye, and in a wee, high voice, said, "Thank you!";

If you leave them during the day, give them a safe perch that lets them watch the world outside. As a dog ages, they may need steps to reach their perch. Don't mistake their gameness to jump and please you, as unlimited ability to do so;

-Don't for one moment think of them as a "toy." They have the same feelings and needs as anyone. Give them big beefy bones they can growl over. Let them socialize with other dogs;

-Use your good sense and compassion when choosing accessories. Many small dogs are mortified by the costumes they're forced to wear, and act this out with misbehaviour and anxiety. I'll say it again, "Dogs make fun of each other, just like we do!" Don't work out your own fashion issues on your pet.

I deal with clothing/collar/blanket/dish/tack preferences all the time in my practice. Yes, they do see colour. Yes, they care about texture. Think about how very simple animals' possessions are, and that they don't have the ability to change these. If you sense discomfort, leave it off, or ask an Animal Communicator;

-Give them a job, whether it's fetching one slipper at a time or an agility routine;

-Recognize that much of the time, the "yapping" other people complain about is a combination of being treated as though they're not dogs, and their desire to protect you---along with the knowledge they can't really do the job. Build their self esteem in other ways;

-Small dog breeds have some special health needs. Read up on your breed. Many have poor teeth, and need extra dental care. White dogs can tend towards deafness.

And please: if you're thinking of acquiring a small dog, look to local rescues and shelters first. Such genuinely nice dogs get dumped. The Spaniel in the photo was an unclaimed stray, with not a thing wrong with him physically or behaviourally. The main reason people get rid of pets, is because they don't realize how much responsibility they are. In BC, we have a double problem: low vacancies at exorbitant rates, with landlords who don't allow pets.

If you're thinking of adopting, please feel free to consult with me. I can look at rescues' photos and give you an idea of their personalities. A session with me can save you much time and effort.

Here's to small dogs, and the people who love them!

Kind regards,
Raisa Stone
Expert Animal Communicator
www.reisastone.com

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May 16, 2012

Reisa Stone: Are Animals Our Mirrors?

I've heard from various sources, "Your pets are your mirrors." I've actually used the word "mirror" myself, then began examining it. It's a literal statement. A mirror reflects back precisely what it sees. No subletly, no interpretation is possible. I've had to think that over. If your cat is soiling outside the litter box, does that mean you're misusing the toilet? That's just silly!

The other thing that bothers me is the simplistic and judgmental values that can be attached to the concept of "mirror."

I volunteered hands on hours at a horse rescue. A big gray Thoroughbred mare had an unpredictable personality. She was all sweetness one moment, then would strike like a snake with hooves or teeth the next.

I tried to speak with her and simply brush her long neck. She turned a soft, sweet eye and voice one moment, then aggressively lunged with her teeth the next. She had nailed one volunteer in the knee, and others had marginally missed being injured. I told the volunteer trainer that this mare needed to be sent away to a professional to work with her troubled soul.

She had been a race horse, and found the betrayal of being intensely worked with one hour per day, then isolated in her bathroom (stall) for the other twenty-three, too much to bear. She was more like an angry cat than a horse. Mad at the world and also lacking horsey social skills due to this isolation, she even badly injured a sweet little mare who tried to befriend her. At 1100 lbs., making her safe would take many hours of daily commitment.

"Animals are our mirrors," responded the amateur trainer. Then came the kind of New Age judgmental statement that serves no one, "If you experience her as temperamental, you need to look at yourself."

I leaned on the fence as this philosopher worked with the gray mare in the round pen. The mare charged her. She came towards the woman with head in a low, submissive posture. Quick as a wink, she turned and expertly aimed her rear hooves at the "trainer's" head. I held my breath as the mare did this three times, her aim precise and muscular. She missed the middle of the trainer's face by scant inches.

To my amazement, the woman pretended nothing was wrong! She did not even practice the basic round pen technique, which is to first "join up" (create trust), then "send away" (make the horse run laps) when there is misbehaviour.

She was in mortal danger from a horse that had learned somewhere that the only way to deal with tricky humans, was to out-trick us. I felt compassion for the mare, but compassion does not mean allowing yourself to be damaged.

Not calling her on this behaviour was (a) dangerous to humans; (b) dangerous to the mare, as horses who act this way often end their lives at slaughter; (c) not fair to potential adopters, who were not told of the mare's unbalanced nature. Dishonest adoptions can end in disaster.

What I find to be true: animals are not our "mirrors." They are our Master Teachers. Mirrors usually teach us to be self-critical. Teachers educate us in how to work with our self-image, which is far more complex than a one-dimensional, literal reflection.

Animals are no more our mirrors than are our friends, our partners, our coworkers. They are fellow travelers in life, opportunities to further our soul's growth. They are not mimics.

Absolutely, this big gray mare had lessons to teach. As I had been badly injured by a horse with similar behaviours years ago, my own lesson was to not bite off more than I could chew. I could not change her behaviour with my minimal volunteer hours.

Nor could I count on anyone to reinforce any positive steps I did take with her. With my now crushed spine (I can walk, but cope with chronic pain), it would be foolish to play SuperHorsewoman and volunteer extra hours to help.

No, my original assessment was sound. If there was any mirror at all, it showed me how much I've matured. I no longer pride myself on being able to "ride anything with four legs and hair." No one can.

Until similar horse management issues at this rescue became overwhelming and I left, I turned my energy to the willing horses. They needed me as much as the dangerous ones. This is also a "people lesson" for me.

Whether it's biting, kicking, soiling, digging, barking, timidity or another distressing behaviour, raise your antennae when someone throws a thinly veiled criticism at you. This is different from a professional being forthright, using language you understand and have the tools to debate.

There is an abundance of specialized language floating around out there, from the concepts of Natural Horsemanship to various yogic disciplines to religious fundamentalism and alternative spiritualities/therapies. Whether you reach out to a trainer, a coach or an Animal Communicator, look for someone who guides you towards discovering what your pet is trying to teach you. That takes plain talk and common sense.

Your friend in the love of animals,
Reisa Stone

I'm Dr. Dolittle. Questions?
www.reisastone.com

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March 18, 2012

Reisa Stone: Grooming the Short Haired House Pet

First and most important, tell your pet you're going to groom her. Explain that it will feel good, and it will feel even better as time goes on.

Assemble your grooming tools. You need: a soft bristle brush----please, no wire brushes---a soft white cloth, cotton pads (makeup removers), extra virgin olive oil, a dental scaler and a soft toothbrush. For cleaning teeth, you can use baking soda, or a specialty pet toothpaste. Do teeth last, and have treats handy to take away the taste of the soda.

Nail clipping is a subject for another time.

Let your pet sniff the tools, and explain each one. Many people simply start applying a strange object to an animal's body, then are surprised when they get a negative reaction. How would you feel in your pet's place?

Start by brushing gently on your pet's neck and back, always along the lay of the hair. Brushing against the lay hurts, and serves only to break healthy hair and create more shedding.

Use the brush near her eyes and genitals once she is obviously comfortable with the brush on less sensitive areas. You don't want a sudden movement to poke your pet, and make them reluctant to be groomed. Talk to her, tell her what a good girl she is. You can also tell your pet they will be swallowing less hair from now on when they clean themselves :-D

Finish your brushing session by wiping your pet from head to tail with a soft flannel cloth. I use white, as it shows me anything I may have missed. If for example, you see tiny dark spots (flea poop), you can at least catch the fleas before they become a bigger problem.

To clean ears: dip the cotton pad in extra virgin olive oil. OO is a skin nutrient with no toxic properties. I highly discourage using petroleum-based products such as Vaseline or baby oil. Gently swab inside the ear only as far as you can see. Take a clean pad, dip it in oil, and squeeze a couple of drops into the ear canal. Do not probe. Over the next 2-3 days, excess wax and dirt will float to where you can easily swab it with a pad. Do not use Q-Tips. A sudden head shake (common when cleaning ears) can cause injury to the ear drum.

If there is an obvious excess of dark wax, and particularly if the ear smells bad and/or your pet has been scratching, you may need to see the vet. Ear mites or an infection can cause these symptoms.

Again, keep explaining to your pet what you are doing, and why. Since all animals clean themselves and groom each other naturally, they will understand the concept.

Keep at it, persistently and lovingly. Do not show any impatience. Never restrain and force. If your pet is reactive to certain areas being touched, use it as an opportunity to understand and empathize with their sensitivities. If you are not your pet's first home, you never know what may have happened to them. This is one of the areas Animal Communication can really help.

Eventually, your pet will look forward to being groomed. They simply need to connect the sometimes uncomfortable process with feeling better. As I said in my initial post, grooming is an intense bonding experience.

In my next blog post, I'll discuss dental scaling and brushing. Horse grooming is its own topic. I'm an old "A" circuit show groom, so I may even bore you with tips and tricks :-D

Re: long haired pets. It's really best to have a groomer show you how to groom them. If they've developed mats, for example, this can require expert assistance.

With great love to you and your pet,

Raisa Stone

Animal Communicator

www.reisastone.com

March 01, 2012

Reisa Stone: Communicate With Your Pet, Part 3

Less than 48 hours till my Talking With Animals seminar at Vancouver Pet Expo! Details at the bottom of this post. If you can make it, we'll be doing a fun and profound exercise to help you connect with a pet. Here is one I won't be covering in a hectic atmosphere like an expo, as it can be quite time consuming. I walk you through this in private workshops.

You can do this on your own, or take turns guiding a friend.

Sit or lie down. Breath deeply. Let your limbs relax, and your jaw drop open.

Imagine yourself at the top of a flight of stairs. Start walking down, still breathing deeply. Count the stairs: 1, 2, 3....

You'll know when you've reached the bottom.

At the bottom of the stairs is a door. Open the door, and you will find yourself in a particular landscape. It may be a forest, a desert, or a completely unfamiliar setting.

Take your time acclimating to this place. Breath in its scents, feel the air temperature, the surface beneath your feet.

As you walk forward, you sense an animal presence. Invite him or her to come forward. This is the pet that most needs to communicate with you. He or she may be alive or in the spirit world, they may be temporarily elsewhere or permanently rehomed.

You may be surprised by which pet it turns out to be. Accept their presence. This is who you are to connect with at this time.

This pet has something to tell you. Your job is to simply listen. Invite them to speak with you whenever they feel the need. Ask them questions. Do not scold.

If you feel you need forgiveness for a misunderstanding, ask them and wait for a response. As most of us have muddled through life not hearing animals when they speak (I'm not perfect, either), I've found this to be powerful and vital part of the exercise.

When their message has been delivered, thank them for the communication.

This is one way to establish and maintain connections with spirit animals, and also create a closer bond with one in the physical. If you connect with a pet in the spirit world, don't be surprised if they visit you again, even unbidden. I'll discuss this phenomena further in future.

When your pet indicates its time for them to leave, thank them. Walk towards the door, and walk up the staircase. Let yourself come gradually out of your very relaxed state.

To solidify your experience, journal it.

This exercise may seem quite short in reading. In a workshop, I would talk you through it in a way that gives everyone ample time for each section. We would further share what we had experienced. In total, this exercise done conscientiously and thoroughly, takes anywhere from 45 minutes to two hours.

Read the first post in the Communicate With Your Pet series.

Animal Communication learning materials are available on my website.

Kind regards,

Raisa Stone

Animal Communicator

www.reisastone.com

Painting: Quite a Deal, Thoroughbred stallion by Reisa Stone. You can buy Dealer on products at my Zazzle.ca store, SpiritHorses.

All posts on the Animal Nation blog are copyright Raisa Stone. They may be Shared in entirety using social media buttons. Otherwise, contact Raisa for reprint permission.